Hook: |
Owner Mosquito Hook: Size 2 or Daiichi 1120 size 6 - 10 (summer runs) |
Thread: |
6/0 color to match fly (orange in this case) |
Bead |
Gold or Hotbead sized to match the hook |
Tail: |
A tuft of cerise glo bug yarn and two matching black goose biots |
Underbody: |
0.035 gauge lead wire |
Body: |
Medium size Wine Ultra Wire and 0.28 gauge fuchsia Spirit River Hotwire |
Wingcase: |
Black thinskin or substitute and wide pearl tinsel; covered with epoxy after the fly is finished |
Thorax: |
Spirit River Steelhead Peril Litebrite dubbed and picked out |
Legs: |
Medium Sized black rubber legs |
Collar: |
Black hen saddle or substitute |
Notes: |
This is one of my favorite point flies when nymphing faster water for steelhead. This fly is very heavy and dives to the bottom quick making it ideal to through in front of another nymph or an egg imitation. The color combination on this fly also does a great job of grabbing the attention of fish in off color water and while more fish may grab the trailer fly, you can bet that this is the fly that got their attention. With the webby soft hackle tied in the front, this fly with also fishes well just as it lifts and starts to swing. |
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Step 1: Place a bead on the hook and then wrap in some lead wire so that it slides under the bead and back to about half way in between the eye and bend of the hook. Next start the thread just behind the lead wire. |
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Step 2: Use bit of dubbing to make an even ramp up to the back of the lead wire and secure the wire in place. Tie in a tuft of glo bug yarn and wrap it back to just beyond the bend of the hook. Trim the excess at an angle so that lines up evenly with the dubbing ramp. |
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Step 3:Tie in opposing goose biots on either side of the tuft of glow bug yarn. Next tie in your wires. These should be about 6-7" long and tied in along the side of the hook up to just before the bead. |
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Step 4: Wrap the two wires forward to just shy of the bead. Take special care to make sure that the wires are flush against each other when wrapping them forward. |
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Step 5: Now tie in the wide pearl tinsel, wrapping it back to about 50% of the shank left. Next tie in a strip of thin skin that is approximately half the width of the hook gap, so that it is facing shinny side down. Secure it back to the 50% point. |
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Step 6: Dub with steelhead peril litebrite from where you tied the thin skin in to about half way between the bead. |
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Step 7: Tie in one 1 3/4" black rubber leg on each side of the fly, where you left of with the dubbbing. |
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Step 8: Dub the rest of the thorax |
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Step 9: Tie in a black head saddle hackle with long webby fibers. Wrap the hackle for a collar and tie it off. |
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Step 10: Part the hen saddle fibers off to either side on the top of the hook and pull the thin skin and tinsel over the back of the thorax and tie it down. It like to throw a whip finish in at this point before I trim the excess thin skin and tinsel just to make sure it doesn't get loose. |
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Step 11: After whip finishing the fly, pick out the dubbing on the thorax and trim any squiggly piece, then epoxy over the wing case. |
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Top View |
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or comments
California Heritage Trout Challenge
Truchas Mexicanas' - Native Trout of Mexico
Balkan Trout Restoration Group
Trout and Seasons of the Mountain Village - About Japanese Trout
Dave B's Blog: Fly Fishing for Native Trout
The Search for Native Salmonids
Western Native Trout Initiative
Americanfishes.com - Joseph R. Tomelleri
Fish Eye Guy - Underwater Trout and Salmon Pictures